Just about every service, every repair water pump, fuel pump are two that both cars have required is more expensive in terms of labor and parts for the Turbo vs. A lot more smoke at startup when I was experimenting with disconnected. A surging idle might be indicative of an intake air leak, and the idle will surge with one because the electronic idle circuit will hunt becasue you are getting more air flow than it thinks it is letting in. Now the question is, is this convincingly a case of bad and in need of replacement? The check engine light went out after a few months. Nothing that I know of. And the P1128 stayed away.
I could distinctly feel it in my case. Hooked up my laptop and took it for a spin 20 odd miles the code hasnt come back on. Unfortunately I had to take it to a shop as reaching it while having the car on a jackstand was a quite a task and I gave up after an hour or so of struggling. After about another 50 or so miles, came back on again last week and this time the codes were P1128, P1130, P1126 and P1133 I dont have any excess smoke at startup or something and besides my is just a year old so that doesnt look a likely candidate this time. The tech admits this is a real puzzler.
Evacuate the air trapped in the system with a machine designed to do that? The car runs fine at speed, but has a grumpy idle. All Porsche diagnostics computer telemetry from the engine doesn't flag any thing. And damn that Porsche engineer that thought it would be a great idea to put a cable connector and bracket right in the way of getting at the lower bellows clip -that guy oughta be shot. I am not aware of it being substantially worse than other new model Porsches, specifically Caymans in terms of maintenance. Could see my self keeping this one, well maybe for the summer! Even if the clutch is otherwise ok -- and so far it has been -- some clutch hardware in the bell housing has to be replaced.
If I had fried an ecu then I wouldn't be able to drive it would I? Spoke to tech today and told him this. So, I'm kind of hoping the tech finds the source of the error code. Turns out the check engine light now does not work at all and the old P1128 code is still in the computer along with a new P1130 code. The engine is over 315K miles and counting. To refit the Turbo exhaust system metal o-rings have to be replaced that seal the turbo to the exhaust system. The logged actual values seem to be more or less fine. But the dealer is kind of sneaky.
I will let you know the outcome. Some surface street time, then mostly freeway, ending with some surface street time again. They suspected the leak, so they used their smoke generator to find the crack in the bellows. Bought them for mine but found out it was the filler before I ever installed them. Can I replace just that? But logically thinking - a wrong pin configuration would have probably messed up your system even before you could read codes and reset so thats unlikely but I am just thinking aloud here. P0306 Misfire Cylinder 6 3.
If your are for a different car, select that vehicle series before searching for the diagnostic codes because not all used by one manufacture are used by the other makes. So after this happened, I brought it home and then waited till got replaced before driving it again. When you did the fluids replacement in your coolant tank, did you burp the cooling system? Thanks Rolfy Yes I did. Another good couple of tricks for finding an air leak ar to spray Carb cleaner careful, it flamable so do this at your own risk on the intake pipe joints etc, if there is a leak the engine will rev up, or take a length of hose pipe say 3-4 ft , and use it like a stethescope. Turbo spark plugs require the rear bumper be removed along with the exhaust system and some of the intake system.
Its not something that comes at low rpm or something but just first in the morning. Terrific car, once one tames the front end plow alignment and rear roll stiffness fixes. Pedro's answer - a new same old bearing and an oil feed, makes the most sense to me. The P1128 error came back. So i threw my P1128 out the other day.
I mist have fixed something, but it was mainly an accident or it was slightly clogged and i did not detect the clog. Once removed, you can get at the lower clip much better. I was deceived after my cleaning as the did not light up but the codes showed up when I checked with my scanner. The plow I think comes from the very wide rear tires. We'll see how it goes. I checked for live values of sensor at idle - about 800rpm using my kit: sensor value: 1. Hope this give youu another idea where to look.