Turn the heater on, the coolant drops right away. Turn it off, it goes right back up. I also know the ecu needs an update, its still running the calibration from 2006. As for the sensors, obviously its working, but if its corroded, its leaking and needs to be replaced. Using a small ratchet, extensions, and 8mm socket, remove the three 8mm bolts on the thermostat housing.
All of a sudden, all the codes disappeared. Have this checked out at an accredited auto transmission shop. I then jacked the car up. Once that hose heats up, you know your thermostat is working properly. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please,! Using a small ratchet, extensions, and 8mm socket, remove the three 8mm bolts on the thermostat housing.
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact. Code P0126 can also be a bad thermostat. If it looks good, consider replacing the sensor. Check the sensor connection and wiring. Even then, be very careful when removing the cap. Please be safe and use wheel chocks. I also replaced the thermostat just to be on the safe side since the engine temp was surging from low 70s to high 90s.
Here's a run of my coolant temperature. You can look in your owner's manual for the fluid types and it will tell you. The main downside to low coolant temps is your heater won't heat very well. Engines fail emissions when they run too cool because they can not get the cat s up to temperature. Once the screws are removed, pry back the wheel well cover to access the back of the headlamp to change the bulb. Be sure you're using the right stuff as there are some varieties of Coolant that don't play well with Aluminum blocks.
If you notice a coolant leak, it should be taken care of as soon as possible to avoid damage to your engine. What type of code reader do you guys use. Update: after changing out the temp sensor the car did well for a week and then when it got cold outside the check engine light came on again. Posted on Jan 23, 2010 Here is what I found on P0128 code: - Leaking or stuck open thermostat - Low engine coolant level - Insufficient warm up time - Faulty engine coolant temperature sensor - Engine coolant temperature sensor harness is open or shorted - Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit poor electrical connection When is the code detected? If it is low, repeat steps 7—11. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. If replacing the right bulb, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, or do the opposite for the left side.
If your needle doesn't shoot to hot you are ok. At this point, you should be able to pull the thermostat off the block, and feed it up and out or down and out of the engine-bay. This is due to the fuel cut control operation, which prevents overheating, and it does not indicate a malfunction. The modified signal returns to the as the engine coolant temperature input. The sensor modifies a voltage signal from the Engine Control Module.
Most often the coolant sensor is quite separate to the temperature sender, so a correct read-out on the dash board does not necessarily indicate correct sensor function. Constantly check for leaks when the car is running. The coolant system is under pressure and will blow up in your face. I remember seeing something about this. Using long-handled pliers, unclamp the smaller of the two hoses where it attaches to the thermostat. Run the engine at idle for 5 s. At this time, be careful of the engine coolant temperature to prevent overheating.
Every now and then when I am monitoring the fuel system status, I see open loop low temp. The engine coolant temperature does not reach to specified temperature even though the engine has run long enough. The currently selected is for the Mazda makes. Take from it what you will. There is no radiator cap, so all the coolant will go through the tank. Use the solution as is when replacing coolant. Better hope the plug is ok or you will need to replace that also.